Click on image to view gallery
Back in June, 2004 I enjoyed a lovely drive from Squamish down along the Stawamus and Indian Rivers to the northern tip of Indian Arm. For the next thirteen years I have wanted to return and have tried a few times only to get stopped by something blocking the way. For a while the road had been barricaded, then it was reopened and the various washouts repaired but each time I tried something got in the way to prevent me from reaching the goal. This time we got further than our previous attempts but still didn’t make it. Here is the story of this adventure.
My last try at reaching the fjord was already 6 years past! I had been waiting to hear that the barricade was removed and only recently was I aware that it was indeed gone. So I had been planning to retry the road from the start of the year, now I just needed a time when Geoff was available to drive. The day finally came and he along with his eldest son Liam joined me for the drive to the tip of Indian Arm. We met at my home and started loading the truck, it took a bit longer to get all the gear stowed as we had to make room for Liam, we also had to remember all the things that were normally loaded as on our last trip we had left behind a few items that we could have used.
Setting out around 8:40 we made for coffee and then the highway for Squamish. So far the trip was going smoothly and we were topping up the fuel in Squamish for the drive along the river. Starting in on the Mamquam Forestry Road we noticed a large number of vehicles parked alongside from all across North America. We figured that rock climbing of the Chief was what brought so many long distance visitors. The Mamquam FSR was in good shape and we made quick time to the fork where we started off on the Stawamus. This road was considerably rougher and we noticed that there was still a sign posted that the bridge was removed at the 10km point, not encouraging but I believed it to be left over and no longer accurate.
The road is quite rough in places, a rock slide in one spot was particularly bad, but it was passable. The road continued this way up to the highest point where the Stawamus and Indian river headwaters almost meet. This was where there was once a concreate barrier setup to keep people out of the southern valley. Only a few blocks remained of the old barrier and all signs were removed. We stopped to gather a few photos of the spot and the road just past where it had been. Then it was off along the road to see if the bridge was indeed removed.
Descending the slope we soon arrived at the crossing of the river, well, there was a fine bridge there and not a temporary sort. So across we went and south we drove for what we hoped would be a simple drive to the end of the road. The forestry road condition notices page did speak of minor washouts and those we did find as we made our way along. At one point we came by a huge cast iron pipe left alongside the road. This caught our attention and we stopped to look it over before continuing on. As we studied the pipe a pair of motorbikes came by and continued past us. We started off again and crossed some more streams and then we noticed we had reached the gorge like section of the river. Unfortunately we soon encountered another rock slide across the road.
This slide seemed a bit deep and rough for our truck. It was very frustrating as we were now passed the spot of our previous attempt but still quite short of the end. As we studied the slide a group of four on bikes came up for the south. The first guy got across the rocks fine but the next three all needed help with balance as they crossed the rocks. They said that the rest of the road was clear and easy if one could just get past this pile of rock! We decided that it would likely just damage the truck too much to try it so we reluctantly turned back. Our next stop would be the gorge area of the river.
We found the section of river and parked the truck on the side of the road and walked down the short drop from the road to the first of the huge boulders strewn across the river. It was fun walking out here gathering photos of the rapids and various waterfalls. Liam was having a great time climbing the rocks, this was the best part of the day for him. Geoff had to keep reminding him to be careful and keep back from the edge of the rocks. A fall here would likely have serious consequences. We worked our way along the river across a few groups of large rocks gathering photos and finding things of interest as we went. Soon however we felt it was time for lunch and we decided to head further upstream to a broad flat area of river where we could drive out on the river bed.
We eventually found a short passage that got us to the river bed. It started by squeezing between two trees and then a rapid turn and drop from road level to river. It really wasn’t hard but the start with the two trees needed some planning. We drove out on the rocks that covered the river bed and soon noticed another vehicle parked just a bit upstream from us! We drove further to the centre of the bed and made our way upstream. It was very bumpy driving and I didn’t want to go too far but eventually we found a sandy area and softer section and it was there that we stopped to eat lunch. Geoff and I got out our burners and started heating soup and noodles for lunch, meanwhile Liam was exploring a small pond section of the river at the base of a rock foundation for a powerline tower.
Well as can be expected when a boy finds water, rocks and sand, he had soon fallen in the water. At least he was only wet up to his knees! Unfortunately there were no spare shoes for him. Geoff tried drying them while we ate but it didn’t help much. We ate our lunch and I gathered some photos and then we set out back for the access road. As we made our way across the short climb up to the main road, Liam noticed a caterpillar floating in the water. I rescued the little guy and offered it to Liam to hold and look over, but this scared him more than the water flow in the rocks!
We then regained the road and started the return drive, stopping to try a few side roads but they all ended a short distance in! So we made fast time to the high point of the valley where a lovely pond forms the start of the Stawamus River. It was this pond that was full of huge tadpoles on a previous drive. Today there were none but the scene was still very pretty and I gathered quite a few photos. Done with the pond we started back for the highway while exploring the short spurs along the way. Before the end of the FSR we drove in a short spur that stops at the river and there we did a little bit of target practice. Liam had never shot a gun before and he was quite leery of his dad’s .22 but we got him to take a shot and then he fired off a clip at a beer can we found lying on the ground. He was having some fun with this new adventure.
Well, done with the exploring, and shooting we continued out along the road and very soon we were back on the Mamquam and then at the intersection with the highway. We waited for a gap in the traffic and zipped across and started for home. Once past Horseshoe bay we stopped for a coffee before engaging in the heavy and backed up traffic along upper-levels. But once across the bridge we had smooth driving for the rest of the way home. A good trip for all and Liam seemed to quite enjoy several of the opportunities he had to climb on things.